Wednesday 4 May 2011

DON’T EAT THAT STREET MEAT!!! and other latest Salone tales…

I wrote this on the eve of the 50th Anniversary, but did not post it, but i thought I might as well publish it. Enjoy!

As it comes up to the 50th Anniversary on Independence for Sierra Leone, we have been noticing some grand changes in Freetown. Some Amazing, some interesting, informative and exciting. Some hilarious and downright ridiculous at the same time. These boundaries are in no way mutually exclusive, therefore a lot of the changes straddle them all. As the title suggests, I believe one of them is the police crackdown on rogue street traders… but I’ll get to that in point 4. (See all pictures at the bottom of the page)

1. Green White Blue… EVERYWHERE!

If you live in England and think the population has gone overboard with the union jack bunting and the endless Kate and William wedding memorabilia (yes, I’ve been reading the BBC news), then you certainly have not been to Freetown! As the pictures below suggest, as the country prepares for the celebrations of its 50th year of independence on Wed 27th April 2011, you will not go anywhere in Freetown where a mark of the motto: ‘50 years Forward’ is not present in some shape or form. From logoed pens and rulers to knitted scarves (????, I know right!), to stickers, flags, billboards, key chains, caps with flag colours objects…. You name it, its being sold by street traders. In the centre of town, flag coloured bunting has strewn up everywhere, with no exception. It really creates an atmosphere of anticipation. I’m quite looking forward to the day. What I find most interesting yet bizzare is that everything has been painted green, white and blue (if you are not aware, these are the colours of the flag of Sierra Leone). The bottom third of lamp posts, railings, walls, central reservations, tree stumps… If it can be painted, It has been! And there is little discrimination with regard to the disparity in the shades of colour used (a nuance really). So you would go from one street with deep and subtle coloured flags to another with bright neon colours that increases the heat (at least that’s how it feels). Its all extremely strange, but again the atmosphere is so energetic and alive because of all the vibrant colour and the race for each group to show their patriotism ahead of the celebrations. Is great and it makes me so happy I’m here in Salone right now!!

2. Wilkinson Road is Looking Up!!

You may remember from my previous posts that Wilkinson Road is being widened and completely reconstructed. Well the Chinese Seventh Group Company are pressing on (though it is my personal opinion that if the whole thing had been approved and started just 6 months earlier, they would be completed by now… but no one asked for my opinion so…). Again as the pictures show, the roads are mostly now dual carriage way… at least that which has been completed. There is still a lot of work to be done, there's plenty of unmoving traffic and its still really dusty as you walk home from Congo Cross (what an amazing name!), but the workers are now tarring the roads and we can walk without feeling we are going to be crushed by a poda or unlawful okada drivers.

Which reminds me, the other day a fellow volunteer Lydia and I were walking to Congo cross, when an okada driver left the road and climbed straight on to the pavement – not that there’s much of it –and honked for us to get out of the way. Imagine our chagrin! I said to him, ‘This na fo feet not okada notto so’, and he shouted back as he bumped past, ‘Don’t worry!’ Great!!

3. The J C’s are back!

J C’s an abbreviation for ‘Just Come’, a term used by local Saloneans to describe their diaspora counterparts who return for holidays and special occasions.  Freya mentioned that she had seen a few more Diaspora in town than normal, so I was on the lookout. Low and behold, every so often, you would see someone who looked and dressed slightly differently to those who you would normally would see. A little more flashy, dressy and a slightly different way of walking. More people chartering taxis and asking to be dropped at a hotel or another. I often wonder if this is what I as a Black non-Salonean must seem like to local people… I have noticed however that I am now treated slightly differently by these locals at this time. Where they would normally have asked, ‘are you an intern or a volunteer? or when did you arrive in Salone?’ I have now been asked, ‘did you go to international school? or when did you return?’. But one thing is clear, the Diaspora are happy to be here to celebrate the anniversary of their Mama Salone!

4. Crackdown on Unlawful Individuals!!

On Thursday 7th April, a photo news piece was published on the front page of the daily newspaper ‘Pemier News’. The headline reads ‘DOG MEAT FOR SALE’. Underneath the caption reads, ‘Yusufu Bangura caught on this week roasting a dog for sale as roast meat.’ After reading this, I was immediately transported back to the days prior to the publishing of this photo. I had been in a taxi, travelling to Kingtom area, when passing the National Sports Stadium on Syke Street, we met unexpected traffic and a commotion further forward. People were chanting and crowding and moving in the general direction of town. All of a sudden, the reason for the commotion became clear as a man emerged from the crowd with a half gutted dog slung on his back. As he walked, tens of men and young boys ran after him singing and chanting loudly in Krio. Perplexed, I leaned out of the window to take a closer look. In true Salonean style, the taxi driver leaned over me and shouted to a near passer-by, ‘Wetin ‘appen?’ The passer-by leaned in and relayed something in fast Krio which I couldn’t quite catch. The driver then explained to me that they had caught this man trying to cut up the dog and sell it on the street. He had been caught and was currently being walked to the police station. He was therefore required – as a mark of disgrace and guilt – required to carry the item which he had broken the law with. All the way to Kingtom, the driver lamented about how humans could be so cruel to each other. I on the other hand, sat there with an anxious flurry in my stomach, thinking back to the previous night when one of my housemates and I had eaten some street meat! Since then, every time I walk by, the wafting of roast meat drifting in my general direction, I picture a street dog staring at me, and I quickly move on. Saying this however, If I have tasted this animal, I certainly didn’t notice a great difference…

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